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This may seem obvious to the vast majority of you, but in our experience, for some it is worth clearing this one up.

In a nutshell you should NOT expect a powerful high intensity UV flashlight to be comparable to a regular (or white light) flashlight. In other words, you should not judge or evaluate a UV flashlight on how "bright" it seems to your eyes. The brighter the UV flashlight does NOT mean the better it is.

The way to know if a UV light is effective is to observe fluorescence of target objects i.e. how well they react to the UV and vividly they glow. The actual UV light source may be and will be "dim" relatively speaking.

Why?

UV light sources are designed to emit mainly UV light (or UV radiation to be more exact). Therefore the majority output from the LEDs will be UV light, and the amount of visible "white" light should be less in proportion. Remember that UV light is not visible because a good UV light will emit the majority of light below the visible spectrum - the visible spectrum is 395+ nanometers in wavelength. Good UV light is below 395nm. 

So, if a decent UV light source is emitting the majority of its light (this is called flux), in the UV range, then naturally your eyes will detect this, and you may be led to conclude that the UV light is "weak", broken, or a scam. But, the way to test, is to point the UV at objects which fluoresce.

Note, that with UV LEDs you will always see a relatively small amount of visible light because this is the way all UV LEDs work - they all emit some light in the 395nm+ region. In other words, there is some flux in the visible region, but not the vast majority of it.

"Better" UV lights will have a low amount of flux in the visible region, and the greatest amount of flux in the UV region. A good UV light source will have a high flux density in the UV region, a term which you may have come across before. 

UV or ultraviolet is a type of light that is emitted in the non-visible spectrum - so you can't see it. It's the portion of the rainbow you see in the sky where the violet disappears into a blur - the blur and the section onward is the UV spectrum, which you can't see but it's there.

When you point a regular light at an object - say a brown scorpion for example - what will you see? You will see a brown scorpion illuminated. If you point a UV light at the same brown scorpion what will you see? The same scorpion glowing a vivid blue/green color. The UV has attributes that cause certain objects to glow (or fluoresce) when only hit by UV light. This is the principle of excitation in solid state physics. In short, the UV has a unique type of ability to hit an object with a type of energy that disrupts the target object to the point where that object starts to emit light (in the visible spectrum) that wasn't present before. In fact the orbits of atomic electrons are disturbed (and placed in a higher state) where they cause light in the visible spectrum to be emitted. This is known as fluorescence by excitation.

This is pretty unique to UV and means that objects that are otherwise hard-to-spot or invisible, become easily and effortlessly visible under UV. That's why UV is so popular. And it's uses and applications grow with imagination. 

Did you know?

That some animals are able to see in the UV spectrum? Did you notice in Predator 2 with Danny Glover, that one of the spectrums (or spectra) used by the Predator in the abattoir was UV? Ok that's a film. Actually, Kestrels (a bird of prey) hover to spot the urine trails of mice, visible only in the UV spectrum. The Elk (or is it Moose?) also has been found to see in the UV spectrum - to its eyes camouflaged wolves appear as dark black objects moving against pure white snow. Under normal light and to our eyes you can hardly see the wolves against the terrain. 

V1 and V2 Models

The V1 and V2 models cast more of a floodlight beam rather a spot light. These models are still high intensity UV and the UV beam coverage is slightly wider than the V3 models at shorter ranges. However, the range of the V1 and V2 UV beam is not as far reaching as the V3 models. So the V1 and V2 models are good choices for jobs where a very long UV beam throw is not critical. The rank for range or UV beam throw goes to the winner being the V3 models, next best is the V2, and then it’s the V1.

V3 Models

In contrast the V3 models (with the exception of the V3 365nm MINI) are designed for a much longer and further reaching UV beam. V3 have the highest UV intensity. The UV beam from the V3 models is more of a spot than a flood like with the V1 and V2 models. The V3 models are highest intensity UV, and the spot is adequate even for relatively close-up jobs, but for those that prefer or require a wider spread of UV then the V1 and V2 models may suit better.

So it depends on if you have absolute and clear requirements of beam range versus beam spread. Realistically speaking, the way UV is used in detection, which is by scanning a beam across an area of interest, the V3 models perform adequately. The range and intensity of the V3 models is something which sets them apart.

Last in-a-nutshell point. When it comes UV beam quality, the V3 365nm and the V3 365nm MINI are pretty much untouchable in terms of UV beam quality. Being 365nm wavelength the results you’ll witness are very superior to the wavelengths of 385nm, 395nm UV. The V3 models emitting at 365nm will give you a much higher level of visual results and performance – professionals and industry use this wavelength for very good reasons. Now that doesn’t mean you won’t get good results with the 385-395nm UV wavelength models, you will, but the highest quality best-in-class standard comes with the 365nm wavelength versions. And you’ll likely be upgrading to this wavelength anyway once you’ve graduated with the 385-395nm wavelength models. Most people do.

The easiest test is to use ID documents and items. These have features which are designed by the regulatory authorities which ONLY react to ultraviolet light. Such items are a currency bill, an ID document, a Passport, a Driver's Licence, etc.

Take the UV light source and observe the fluorescence of markings. This markings will not be visible under normal light or under a regular flashlight, no matter how powerful.

Many inferior UV lights will not show these up, or if they do, the markings will be difficult to determine easily. The result you are looking for is that the markings should be relatively easy to distinguish and in some cases may just pop out at you. 

You may be surprised to know that a comprehensive answer to this question is difficult. There are the common uses most people know, the not-so-common, and even the ones we ourselves are learning about from users.

For most, deploying UV is a game changer.

Broadly speaking UV can be applied on anything that reacts to UV light. So, in manufacturing, UV is used to check for conformal coating, dyes to detect leaks, and adhesive curing. In the food industry, UV is used to check the quality of eggs, coffee, imperfections in crab meat, age of bananas, and so on. In flora and fauna, and similar fields, UV is used to check for the age of owls, animal and human urine, bones, fossils, scorpions, caterpillars, flying squirrels, and similar fauna. Lichens, Mosses, Fungi, and similar on the flora side. In the art industry, UV is used to check out if expensive items have been tampered with, to verify uranium glass, to charge photo-phosphorescent items (charging glow items), and so on. In crime and forensics UV is used to detect the presence of human urine, fingerprints, blood (sometimes with luminol), teeth and bone fragments, presence of narcotics, security marks and checks, etc. In sports and recreation UV is used to charge and also locate golfing discs, golf balls, charging of fishing lures, and similar.  In geology UV is used to fluoresce many minerals and deposits which react to longwave UV in a way that cannot be replicated in visible light. In mining UV is used to detect rubies, opal, etc.

UV is even used by paranormal investigators. The list is actually very long and users are making new discoveries every day - the fluorescence of flying squirrels is one example.

Here's a list for quick reference.

Whether your needs are commercial or domestic uvBeast will not disappoint. Among other applications that require UV light, uvBeast is especially designed (but not limited to) to fluoresce the following:

• Cat/Dog urine (Note: urine needs to be dry - as wet/fresh urine doesn’t fluoresce under UV, but a wet urine stain is easily spotted by the eye anyhow)
• Scorpions and their dens (but the very young, and adults just molted may not glow as much)
• Rat/Mouse urine trails (appear as small dots since they urinate and defecate as they travel and eat – weird I know, glad humans aren't like that. But then again..)
• Human Body Fluids (urine, semen – sorry but had to include for completeness)
• Unsanitary stains, and the like
• UV Curing. For applications that require 365nm or work with higher wavelengths such as 385-395nm, but not adhesives requiring higher than that
• Leak detection. Using UV dyes, leaks can be detected know matter how small in just about any machine in use known to man (e.g. AC units, vehicles, aircraft engines, oil rigs
• Conformity detection. Examples include paint applications, glue coatings, correct coatings against substrates
• Artwork and antique inspection, including uranium glass, glow paint
• Property hygiene appraisal, houses, rental properties, hotels
• UV photography
• UV paint charging and fluorescence. Charging of fishing lures, charging of golf discs
• Food quality inspection. Fruits, fish, coffee beans
• Gemstone identification. Rubies, diamonds, sodalite, amber, and many others
• Caterpillar identification (including the Tomato Hornworm crop destroyer)
• Resin detection (like glue, wall paint, etc.)
• Fossil detection
• Ringworm and mold detection (not all species of mold)
• Narcotic detection
• Security markings
• ID and paper currency verification
• Wood (yes wood!) identification and verification

..and in fact the list goes on (if that wasn't enough). 

If you have any other (quirky) uses let us know and we'll include it! 

UV from the uvBeast is not dangerous to the eye. Please refer to the FDA's 21 CFR 1040 - PERFORMANCE STANDARDS FOR LIGHT-EMITTING PRODUCTS paper.

The FDA classifies "harmful" light emitters being laser emitters, sunlamps (for tanning), UV mercury vapor lamps, and medical UV devices.

And this is scientifically correct since the dangerous types of UV are:

1. UV-B and UV-C which are below 315nm which is also known as shortwave UV in the actinic region. Sunlight does contain UV-B which is why you'll see "dangers of sun exposure articles", whilst the Earth's atmosphere filters out UV-C from the Sun - good thing as it has DNA altering characteristics which is why it is used as a germicide

2. Sunlamps that are VERY high intensity which are designed for darkening the skin via exposure for several hours.

All current uvBeast models emit UV-A (above 315nm wavelength) which is not harmful to the eyes nor skin, and moreover the intensity is not that of sunlamps. Moreover the UV emission is at a wavelength of 365nm, or 385-395nm which is well above the dangerous "315nm and below" UVC region.

However, it is not advisable to look directly at the uvBeast since it will cause discomfort similar to looking at any intense light. The UV glasses which are provided with some of our models will assist in reducing the glare effects and any discomfort that some users may experience.

We take great care in making sure that your uvBeast arrives in perfect condition. We carry out before, during, and after production quality checking using industry best practices such as SPC and we'll be introducing Six Sigma.

Despite this we do accept that things may go wrong, whether inside or outside of our control. Our first reaction is not to make excuses, but to resolve the issue as best as we can, while at the same time learning about what can be done better.

This a list of the common issues faced and their remedies.

My UV flashlight won't turn on

Please take care when fitting the battery or batteries. Each battery must be fitted the right way around, and each of the two holders must also be fitted the right way around. If the LEDs do NOT work after battery installation please check for correct battery and battery holder polarity – each battery AND each holder must be correctly installed.

On about 95% of cases we've handled that have this issue, users have resolved this by replacing the batteries with a fresh set of new batteries. NOTE: Even "new" batteries can sometimes contain duds. A sure way of checking this is to use a voltmeter to measure the voltage of each new cell. It should read approximately 1.5 volts for an alkaline. It's easily overlooked, and why wouldn't it be, but it will save you time and hassle in the long run if you are able to resolve the issue immediately.

UV emission appears to be not all that strong (i.e. weak UV)

Firstly, the light output from a (non-visible) UV light will not be of comparable brightness to a regular white light flashlight. If it's your first time using UV please note that even a high intensity UV flashlight doesn't equate to a regular flashlight. Here's how to verify. Carry out a test with objects known to vividly fluoresce such as washed whites (garments), white paper, etc. If you don't see vivid fluorescence in these tests, then this is due to one of two things. A defective unit, or more likely, a battery issue. Our experience shows that the following test will resolve most cases.

Before contacting us regarding a defective unit, please try the following. Our past experience with the vast majority of our customers is that when the existing batteries have been all replaced with new and unused batteries from a different batch, it has in the vast majority of cases solved the problem. Please try the same, as it will help you to rule out a battery issue as well as save you the time, hassle, and frustration in getting a replacement unit. 

We take great care in making sure that your uvBeast arrives in perfect condition. We carry out before, during, and after production quality checking using industry best practices such as SPC and we'll be introducing Six Sigma. 

Despite this we do accept that things may go wrong, whether inside or outside of our control. Our first reaction is not to make excuses, but to resolve the issue as best as we can, while at the same time learning about what can be done better. 

The following is a list of the common issues faced and their remedies.

My V3 UV flashlight won't turn on

Please ensure and check the following:

1. Have you removed the battery insulation disc? 

There is a circular plastic insulation disc fitted to the INSIDE of the flashlight tail cap. Unscrew the tail cap and look inside. You'll see the battery insulation disc. Please remove it, refit the cells the correct way (positive end(s) facing the LED head), and turn ON. The battery insulation disc is necessary only for transit and prevents accidental operation as well as to prevent parasitic battery drain

2.  Are the two 18650 cells inserted the correct way around? 

Obvious we know, but it is a learning curve with many not totally familiar with 18650 nuances. The positive ends of both the 18650 cells must face the LED head. So, with button-top cells the button end faces the LED head, meaning that the other negative end faces the tail cap end. We have definitely encountered this issue on many occasions - it's a very quick fix and and even quicker check to make sure this isn't the reason why the V3 won't turn on.

3. Are the two 18650 cells fully charged? 

Again, an obvious thing to some, but again it's a 18650 learning curve thing. Either check that BOTH cells are fully charged to 4.2 volts EACH or failing that ensure that the charge indicator (usually a red/green LED light) on the 18650 charger you are using turns to green. Note that if you're not using the mains as a current supply it can take a while for the cells to charge. If the charge indicator is not turning green then please read the related section in this guide.

If you have the V3 non-MINI models, then you're looking for the indicator lights on the supplied charger to turn green (from red). 

(For some previous versions of the charger, you're looking for the indicator light on the supplied USB cable to turn green (from red). The indicator on the charger supplied with the V3 Power Pack Edition is always red, as it indicates that current is flowing into the cells and that charging circuit exists and is working. The indicator on the charger will not turn green. Only the indicator on the USB will turn green when the charge cycle is complete).

If you have the V3 365nm MINI model, then you're looking for the charge light located near the LED head to turn from RED to BLUE. Note: To charge the battery in the V3 365nm MINI, with the battery inserted (positive end facing the LED head), attach the USB-C cable to the on board port AND THEN turn the flashlight on/off button to the ON position. The charge indicator light will then turn RED (from blue). Charging is complete when the charge indicator light turns blue.  

4. Are the two 18650 cells flat-top? 

(True) flat top 18650 cells will not work in the V3 models EXCEPT for the V3 365nm MINI. The reason is because the two 18650 cells are connected in series (one on top of each other). Since (true) flat-top cells have the positive and negative metal ends below the plastic casing (when viewed from a side angle), so when they are stacked on top of each other, metal does not touch metal. Therefore, no electrical circuit is made. Now, to clarify the word "true" as in a "true flat-top cell". Some flat-top 18650 cells are sold as flat-top but actually they do have a positive metal end which does extend beyond the plastic casing. The way to distinguish is when you view the positive metal end of the cell directly from a side angle, you will see a positive metal anode protruding beyond the plastic casing. This means that if you stack another 18650 cell on top of this it will form a metal-to-metal contact with the negative end of the other cell. 18650 button-top where possible are the cell types to choose.

5. Checked all of the above but still the V3 will not turn on. 

Do ensure you've carried out the above checks - as we've found that in most cases these resolve. In some rare cases, the batteries may be in "sleep mode". The batteries supplied with the V3 models will need to be charged again using the supplied charger. The IC protection inside the cell sometimes (in rare cases) needs another charge cycle attempt to "wake up" the cell. The battery can sometimes go into a sleep state to prevent over discharging and consequently damaging the battery chemistry.

Otherwise, please contact us on our site and we'll resolve ASAP.

Charger indicator lights not turning green

If you notice that the indicator light (LED) on your charger is not turning green after a while of charging then this is likely due to the battery requiring further time to charge. In some cases it can be 24 hours or more. After this, charge times will resume to the normal hours.

Why is this? Sometimes the battery can be discharged to the point where the protection mechanism in your battery activates. This is for safety and is an added protection with the uvBeast supplied batteries. Some users run the batteries down to a low voltage. Therefore, the batteries will need longer charge times to “wake up”. To avoid this, when you notice that the LEDs on the V3 models blink or turn off shortly after turning the flashlight on, it is time to charge the batteries.  

To ensure that you are following the correct charging procedure for the V3 365nm MINI please ensure the following.

1. That the plastic battery insulation disc is removed.

This is located on the INSIDE of the tail cover. Access this by unscrewing the tail cover and looking inside. You'll see a plastic insulation disc. Please discard as it is for transit purposes only. Sometimes the disc may affix itself to the end of the battery, so check that too.

2. The battery is inserted correctly. The positive end MUST face the LED head. In other words the button end is inserted first and must be facing the LED head.

3. When all the above have been ensured then follow the correct charging procedure as described as follows. You're looking for the charge light located near the LED head to turn from RED to BLUE. To charge the battery in the V3 365nm MINI, with the battery inserted (positive end facing the LED head), attach the USB-C cable to the on board port AND THEN turn the flashlight on/off button to the ON position. The charge indicator light will then turn RED (from blue). Charging is complete when the charge indicator light turns blue.  

You may find that the 18650 batteries on some occasions are slightly difficult to remove from the tail end, after fully unscrewing and removing the tail cap. If this is the case, then please remove the 18650 batteries from the thread point which is located just before the logo area – it’s about an inch and a half past the tail end towards the logo area on the barrel. Grab that section and twist the lower part of the barrel counter-clockwise to unscrew. The battery compartment and hence the batteries can be easily removed this way. For an illustration of this please consult the User Manual available on this website. 

The reason for this is because the supplied 18650 cells are PROTECTED and because of those extra components inside the cell (i.e. the PCB), the diameter of the cell (as well as the length) can vary – albeit only very slightly.

Please follow these steps to ensure correct charging for the V3 models.

1. Connect the charger to a USB port or to the mains adapter. If connected to the mains adapter, then connect the mains adapter to a power supply socket.

2. The charge indicator lights on the charger will turn GREEN indicating that a supply current is detected. The two charging bays are empty at this stage.

3. Insert one or two batteries into the charger bays as required. Be sure to follow the correct orientation of both batteries which is illustrated in an etched diagram in the bay itself. 

4. When power is supplied to the charger, and with the batteries inserted correctly into the charger bays, the charge indicator light will turn RED (from green). When the indicator lights turn green (from red), this indicates that the batteries have completed the charge cycle (i.e. ~4.2 volts).

PLEASE NOTE: Sometimes, and especially on a first-time charge, charging can take a while. In some cases it can be 16 hours or more. This is because the charger is charging the batteries from a depleted state or has detected that that the batteries need to be charged at a slower rate in order to preserve the lithium ion cell chemistry. However, after this charging will resume to normal charge times of around 4 hours

To ensure that you are following the correct charging procedure for the V3 365nm MINI please ensure the following.

1. That the plastic battery insulation disc is removed.

This is located on the INSIDE of the tail cover. Access this by unscrewing the tail cover and looking inside. You'll see a plastic insulation disc. Please discard as it is for transit purposes only. Sometimes the disc may affix itself to the end of the battery, so check that too.

2. The battery is inserted correctly. The positive end MUST face the LED head. In other words the button end is inserted first and must be facing the LED head.

3. When all the above have been ensured then follow the correct charging procedure as described as follows. You're looking for the charge light located near the LED head to turn from RED to BLUE. To charge the battery in the V3 365nm MINI, with the battery inserted (positive end facing the LED head), attach the USB-C cable to the on board port AND THEN turn the flashlight on/off button to the ON position. The charge indicator light will then turn RED (from blue). Charging is complete when the charge indicator light turns blue.  

With most models you will find O-rings in the packaging. These are spares that we have included for you. (Please note that O-rings are already fitted in your uvBeast device).

You may use the spares when the original fitted O-rings either get inadvertently damaged during battery replacement or otherwise. To ensure that you get the longest lifetime from the O-rings, apply a suitable lubricant such as petroleum jelly to the O-rings prior to fitting. Petroleum based lubricants are better since the O-rings are silicone. You may apply lubricant in-situ to the existing O-rings to prolong their life. 

The purpose of the UV glasses provided with some models is primarily for enhanced and amplified viewing of fluorescence (i.e. the items of interest that you want to see). This is particularly effective when (1) traces of fluorescence and/or excitation effects are weak and hard to otherwise spot, and (2) when conditions in the environment present high color “noise”. In addition, our glasses will sharpen and clarify the viewed surroundings and will show any reaction to the UV light i.e. fluorescence, with sharper contrast.

The secondary purpose is to reduce glare and discomfort (by the 385-395nm wavelength range) the user may experience when using the uvBeast especially during prolonged periods. The purple visible wavelength from the uvBeast 385-395nm models can sometimes be slightly overwhelming when against certain backgrounds and substrates.

These glasses were primarily designed to filter out interfering visible wavelengths from the beam of some models of the uvBeast which are in the longer wavelengths (above 365nm). This spectral distribution is a normal characteristic of LED technology as opposed to laser diode technology, and visible light from the uvBeast only comprises a small amount of flux relative to the entire spectral output.

The color tint of the glasses are of a special formula adjusted to the uvBeast’s spectral emission and distribution flux, where transmission of the appropriate and wanted wavelengths are either granted or denied transmission.

(For further information please “Is UV harmful to my eyes” in the Help Center).

(As a background please also see article “Is UV harmful to my eyes?”)

With regards to the uvBeast V3 365nm and the V3 365nm MINI, we do not offer the UV glasses with this product. The reason is because with these particular UV flashlights they are not needed. With our other models we do provide glasses since these emit a higher wavelength of 385-395nm UV. This higher wavelength contains majority UV but since it is close to visible light (~400nm) there is visible light emission.

This visible light (pertaining to 385-395nm models) can cause eye fatigue for some users after prolonged use. So the glasses assist in preventing that. Also, another function of the glasses is to block out visible light interference when observing fluorescence where sometimes and on some target objects it can be difficult to distinguish objects which are fluorescing, and the purple visible light interference emitted from UV flashlights at 385-395nm wavelength.

So, coming back to the uvBeast 365nm UV flashlight models. This flashlight emits a lower and more pure wavelength of UV at 365nm wavelength and consequently doesn't emit anywhere as much visible light and so therefore the glasses are not needed for this particular flashlight.

In addition, UV is classified into longwave and shortwave. Longwave UV also known as UVA is not harmful to skin nor eyes. Longwave UV (UVA) is ~300nm and above, and so the V3 365nm flashlight emits longwave (UVA) UV light which is not dangerous. Shortwave UV however aka UVB and UVC, is harmful due to the shorter wavelength, and is ~300nm and below. This type of shortwave UV has the known ability to damage human DNA (cancerous), and so therefore is treated with extreme caution.

Having said that, as with any powerful flashlight - including white light flashlights - looking at the beam directly will cause discomfort and so like white light flashlights should be used responsibly.

User Manuals can be found by clicking the link below.

User Manuals

The effect of adding an additional cell will be to increase working time by about 1-1.5 hours.

As for the extra cell. Here's what to look for:

1. Button-top, 3.7 volt lithium ion 18650 size 

2. At least 2600mAh capacity (beware of cells which claim 3400mAh plus - this is likely inflated as the known limit at present is around 3400mAh) for 18650 

3. "Protected" cells are better since they will prevent over charging and over discharging. Protected means they have a PCB circuit within the cells itself which monitors the cell chemistry 

4. ICR, IMR, INR cell chemistries are all good. Note with IMR they do not need to be "protected".

Incidentally, another option is to obtain two 3400mAh capacity cells. This will give you longer working times on a single charge due to the higher capacity. Estimation is 5-6+ hours on a single charge.

These are good examples:

https://www.imrbatteries.com/panasonic-ncr18650b-3350mah-4-87a-battery-protected-button-top/

The higher the mAh (capacity) figure the longer they'll last on a single charge. But beware many false vendors inflate the figures, so anything above 3800mAh beware unless it's from the likes of Panasonic, LG, Samsung, Sony, etc.

Two of these in the V3 will give you roughly 5-6+ hours on a single charge. So you may not wish to use the extension barrel. Also the good thing with lithium-ion is that they self-discharge very slowly, so when kept in the V3 for a while they won't lose much charge. Also li-ion don't leak and corrode.

Good outlets are (as well as the above) Battery Bros, Orbtronics, Battery Junction, and similar outlets.

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Li-ion Battery Safety Notes

Use caution as misusing or mishandling the battery may cause a FIRE or EXPLOSION which may result in personal injury, property damage, or death. The user must have an appropriate understanding of the potential dangers of LITHIUM ION BATTERIES before purchase and usage. No express or implied guarantee of compatibility, suitability, or fitness for any particular purpose or device can be made. Any recommendations herein of batteries is intended for the stated use. It is the buyer’s responsibility to check whether purchased batteries are suitable for the stated use as given on this website. The recommended battery is neither designed nor intended to be used with an E-CIGARETTE, VAPORIZER, or similar device and MUST NOT be used with such devices due to RISK OF FIRE or EXPLOSION.

DO NOT USE WITH E-CIGARETTE, VAPORIZER, OR SIMILAR DEVICE

Additional battery manufacturer and battery industry association warnings for using lithium-ion batteries in e-cigarette or vaping devices can be viewed here: Be-CigaretteSafe.org

DO NOT STORE BATTERY/CELL LOOSE OR IN A POCKET, PURSE, ETC. ALWAYS USE A PROTECTIVE CASE OR BOX FOR STORAGE AND TRANSPORT

WHEN NOT IN USE, ALWAYS STORE LITHIUM ION BATTERIES IN THE PROTECTIVE CASE/BOX IN WHICH BATTERIES WERE DELIVERED

Misusing or mishandling lithium ion batteries can pose a SERIOUS RISK of PERSONAL INJURY, PROPERTY DAMAGE, OR DEATH

BATTERIES MAY EXPLODE, BURN, OR CAUSE A FIRE IF MISUSED OR MISHANDLED

Usage of batteries is AT YOUR OWN RISK.

DO NOT short circuit intentionally or unintentionally

KEEP AWAY from metal/conductive objects to prevent short circuiting

DO NOT use if PVC wrapper or terminal insulator is damaged or torn

DO NOT use if battery is damaged in any way

DO NOT over-charge or charge above the maximum voltage rating

DO NOT over-discharge or exceed the continuous discharge rating

DO NOT modify, disassemble, puncture, cut, crush, or incinerate

DO NOT expose to liquids or high temperatures

DO NOT solder onto battery

DO NOT use force to install or install in reverse/backwards

ONLY use within manufacturer’s specification

KEEP AWAY from pets and children

ALWAYS charge in or on a fire-proof surface and never leave batteries charging unattended

ONLY use a charger designed for this specific type of battery

DO NOT mix and match brands and models, old and new, used and unused batteries

STOP immediately if while charging/storing/using the battery it emits an unusual smell, feels hot, changes color or shape, or appears abnormal in any way

It is your responsibility to determine that your charger or device is functioning properly

If exposed to battery electrolyte, flush with water immediately and/or immediately contact a physician or emergency services

DO NOT throw away in trash; contact your local jurisdiction for proper recycling or disposal

No. They are different because they emit UV at different wavelengths. The filter is not causing the difference in wavelengths, the LEDs are. The two models have different LEDs. So the real difference is in the UV wavelength, and the filter on the V3 365nm acts to attenuate the 365nm UV wavelength.

With the V3 385-395nm model, there is “no” 365nm emitted in the first place. (We say “no” but in reality there is some flux in that region but it isn’t significant relative to the majority 385-395nm wavelength). In other words, by simply fitting a filter to the 385-395nm will NOT give you the same wavelength as the V3 365m and therefore it will not give you the same results. 

The difference between 365nm and the 385-395nm ultraviolet is that you’ll get different results. Not necessarily better, but different, since it depends on your usage. For forensic type work, professional stain detection, geology, cell staining, leakage detection, NDT, or in applications where you need high contrast in fluorescence, the 365nm is a sought after wavelength. Also, bear in mind that some substances will only show up under 365nm UV, so that is also a key consideration. Artwork and antique appraisal is a good use case example. The 385-395nm wavelength is sometimes preferred for applications which need higher intensity UV where the higher wavelength will also perform. For example, miners, engineers, fishermen, fossil hunters, bone identification (human and otherwise), and scorpion hunters - to name a few user types - may prefer the longer wavelength and pound-for-pound higher relative UV intensity for longer range applications.

Please see below. Distances from light source are approx. 24 inches.

For all purchases from us at uvBeast.com you will receive an email and/or SMS to track your orders in the follow-up contact we make with you after placing your order with us. Please check for tracking updates.

PLEASE NOTE: Due to COVID-19 still impacting the logistics network throughout, orders may face some delay. Carriers may need to change routes to ensure that your purchase is delivered as fast as possible.

My Order Was Not Received

This could be due to a few reasons. The first thing to do is to check the tracking number for the delivery. If it shows that it has not been delivered then it is likely still on its way. It may have got delayed due to unforeseen circumstances. However, if it's been more than what can be considered as a reasonable time for arrival, then check with the carrier. 

If your tracking information shows that your package was delivered, but you can't find it (then within 36 hours of expected delivery) please:

Verify the shipping address

Look for a notice of attempted delivery

Look around the delivery location for your package

See if someone else accepted the delivery

Some packages travel through multiple carriers; check your mailbox or wherever else you receive mail. Wait 36 hours - in rare cases packages may say delivered up to 36 hours prior to arrival. Outside of this, contact the shipping carrier.

Your Order Could be Undeliverable 

Here are some reasons why sometimes your order cannot be delivered. Please check and ensure that none of these are present, or none of these reasons have caused your order not to have been received by you:

Item is too big for a P.O. Box. Some items are too big to ship to a P.O. Box and must be shipped to a street address.

Incorrect Address/Missing Information. The package is typically returned by the carrier or the unintended recipient if the address is incorrect, has typos, is missing information (such as an apartment number or ZIP code), or is outdated (such as a previous residence).

Address Format. If a post office box address was entered in a format our system does not recognize, the package may be shipped through a carrier that cannot deliver to a post office box. To ensure that such packages are routed through the proper carriers, please enter the box number as "PO BOX" followed by the number. Also, if you're a private mailbox holder (use a local commercial mail receiving agency), do not use "Box" for your mailbox number, instead use # or PMB. This will ensure that your address is not mistaken to be a P.O. Box, and that orders can ship to you via means other than the U.S. Postal Service. 

Secure Location. Your package may be returned to us if there is no safe place to leave the package at the point of delivery, where the package is safe from weather and is not visible to passers by.

Unable to Access. Your package may be returned to if the carrier can't access the delivery location due to no access code, call box number, or buzzer information, and can't obtain the information after multiple attempts.

Other Address Problems. If the order is being shipped to a prison, there may be delivery restrictions associated with the items or shippers These restrictions are determined by the penitentiary and may vary. Many items can be shipped to Department of State addresses, however, some cannot and will be returned as a result. For a full list of shipping restrictions at a specific DOS address, please contact the DOS facilities staff at that location.

Failed Delivery Attempts. Most carriers make three attempts to deliver a package. Packages that contain more than $1300 of merchandise will always require a signature; otherwise, it is generally up to the driver's discretion to determine whether a signature is required. After three attempts, the package will be returned.

Damaged During Transit. If a package is damaged on its way to you, the shipper may return it without attempting delivery.

Other Transportation Problems. Packages can be sorted to the wrong carrier or labels can be damaged such that the carrier is unable to determine the correct delivery address.

Refused by Recipient. If a recipient is not expecting a package, they may refuse it if they believe it was sent to them in error.